Q. How long will it take to sand a medium-sized room?

A medium sized room takes approx 4 to 5 hours if it is old floorboards which have not been sanded before. On previously finished and hardwood or parquet floors, it should take a little less.

Q. Can I use a big machine on parquet?

Yes, because our belt sander is lever-operated so you can control the raising and lowering of the drum. It won’t damage the floor.
For best results, use a trio sander to “table-top” finish afterwords.

Q. Do I need to punch the nails in below the surface of the floor?

Yes it is best to countersink the nails to avoid sparking.

Q. Can the sanders get rid of paint, glue and carpet foam?

Regular household paint on a floor is not usually an issue, because of our unique abrasives. Zaluminium oxide cloth belts should definitely be used to remove regular household paint from a floor. The black bitumen-type paint which frequently ‘picture-frames’ floors in old houses, usually about a metre all round the edge, can be more of a challenge. However, with the aluminium oxide abrasive, you should get it all off. It will take a little longer, however, you will be rewarded with a particularly attractive floor at the end, because usually the quality of wood was superior when this finish was put around the edges

Q. How do I get the bit right in the corners and behind radiators clean?

By hand or the use of a smaller hand held sander or scraper

Q. Do you provide goggles, gloves, masks?

We can provide a safety pack if requested which consists of gloves, mask, goggles and ear plugs

Q. Should I decorate before or after sanding?

Before is usually best. It is much easier to touch up the odd scuff on the skirting caused by the edger (although ours have a protective Velcro strip on the front) than try to protect your newly-floor varnished floor or re-do new lacquer where it has been scratched by ladders or splashed with paint.
Remember our machines are virtually dust-free, so any small amount of dust can easily be got rid of.

Q. What kind of floor varnish should I use?

We usually recommend, and only stock, high-quality water-based floor varnish products, as they are non-toxic, non-yellowing and quick drying. Please note that this new, water-based technology has only really matured in the last few years, and some well-known and widely-sold products are not very durable. They can need re-doing in under a year in some cases, whereas our floor varnishes are designed to last at least 5 years, some up to 20, subject to conditions and regular maintenance, etc.

Q. How many coats will I need?

3 coats on lacquer/varnish and 2 coats on oil and paint finishes or follow the manufacturers instructions

Q. How much water-based floor varnish will I need?

Approximately 5L for 3 coats on 17 square metres.

Q. I can't decide whether to use gloss, satin or matt.

Gloss as a finish is not popular as it shows up any minor imperfections in the floor. However, it is sometimes used effectively on tropical/darker woods for a particular look. Satin, which is between gloss and matt, is the popular contemporary look. It has a sheen and reflects some light, and is forgiving of the odd minor imperfection. Matt, although still a small part of the market, gives a very natural waxed look.

Q. Which wears better, gloss, satin or matt?

In the 20th century, when solvent-based polyurethanes were common, gloss was harder wearing, because manufacturers used additives which weaken the finish to achieve a satin or matt look. However, with our range of water-based floor varnishes, there is no difference in durability between matt, satin and gloss finishes.

Q. What's the best way to apply the floor varnish?

Professionals use rollers.

Q. How long does it take to dry?

Around 1 to 2 hours between coats depending on the weather

Q. What's the difference between floor varnishes, oils and waxes?

Floor varnish coats the top surface of the floor, and forms a hard surface when it dries. This is the usual way of finishing wood floors.
Oil is sometimes used on hardwoods i.e. oak, walnut, tropical hardwoods etc. It works by being absorbed into the timber and relies on the natural inherent strength of the timber itself to protect its surface. If oil is being used, the floor should be fine-finished in preparation. With pine floorboards and the softer hardwoods, oil finish doesn’t seem to work as well. It is important that you see an oiled finish with your type of wood floor to see if this finish suits your floor style.
Shellack and wax finish: pre-1960’s, shellack, a French-polish type floor varnish was used, which was then waxed over. This system is very highmaintenance and not suitable at all in kitchens and living rooms, as wax leaves white deposits when in contact with water. It is also very slippery when wet.